DI owned a corridor on Saint-Honoré Street, in Paris, located between the sparkle of Chanel and St. Laurent, there is a glass door stuck with peeling pictures that form a CADOLLE family tree. These family works have been manufacturing corsets since the late nineteenth century, with existing clients including designers such as John Galliano (who hired them to make Corsia for MAison Margiela) and stars like Beyoncé and Lady Gaga.
POUPIE CADOLLE, who is now 78 years old, welcomes me in the matching salon, “Hello!” She arranges herself elegantly beside me on the Fuchsia sofa, rearranging her silk neck scarf to tell their story. “It is a very long story!” Warning, tending.
The work is now running the daughter of Poupie, Patricia, while Poupie focuses on high -end fashion equipment, but “I started with my great grandmother Hermeini Cadol, who was a very strong character. She was women and Narkia. She spent a lot of time in prison.” Upon his release, Hermeini decided “The liberation of women from the corset, and the first chest was patent ever, in 1889, presented at the World Exhibition where they built the Eiffel Tower.” It refers to a high shelf where this, the first bra, watches the room: inevitable, cream, acceptable. The trick was flexible tapes. They have allowed women to live more functional life, inappropriate for code, and since women have reshaped their bodies and position in society, the work has grown. Poupie learned how to fit and design first from her mother, then from two mentors in the 1980s, Monsieur Bernardin, wearing nude dancers in The Crazy Horse Saloon, and Coutureier Two players Alaa“The genius men who were in love with the woman’s personality.”
A lot has changed, a lot remained, “but the bodies are completely different today. slim You don’t have more waist! Because women do not wear spirals anymore, so women have not trained on the waist circumference to be thin. ”She saw many, many breasts and all of them are very different.” When I started with boutique, the largest size that they stored was a cup B. Today. , “I have a customer with the K. and in the display of the underwear, I saw a booth that does a cup N! “They are movements with her hands. Its ordinary customers pay 900 euros against a custom breast. They fly from the United States or the Middle East, and they sit here in her velvet room, and tell her about their lives.” I must know who she is, how she feels about her body Sometimes she hates herself. I must know what you need. What are they usually He says They need, “good bra.” This means, first, it seems good and secondly that it does not need to be removed as soon as she gets home. ”On the basement, Atelier lines messy with boxes and boxes of wooden plan, each of which contains customer patterns – among them, four young men who are muffled and carefully sewing. It is it. A very technical work, although blue silk deviations and slippery lace.
Poupie loves lace and grieves over underwear in the past, has a bow, grieves on a ruffle. “In some countries, we lose the essence of being a woman!” It’s Tots. “Breed bras or boring underwear? This looks like a bandage when you cut your finger? For us it is very frustrated.” She was, as you think, “a battle against underwear, because it was used as a symbol of repression – women thought they did not need beautiful things To wear it under the temptation of men. “By working with Galliano last year at the show, they were adding fake, extremist bottoms, and since then I have seen the street in Paris recently, some girls, not always elegant, with fake tools as well.” A muffled laugh was remembered by a story about the pop star (engraved), which made underwear for her, which “sang in her show and blew it! The planting exploded!”
CADOLLE is happy to make “Porno Chic” clothes, as long as the fabrics are great. “When it is beautiful, you can get away from it, if the woman herself is behaving!” While Poupie brings to the buttocks installation with lace?) My mom’s messages – would I buy a bra? “No, I cost 900 euros,” I answered. “You can push someone to carry your breasts for a year for that,” she chanted. No need – in the UK we are lucky, says Bobby, because we have Marx and Spencer. “Chest bras are very good – technically it is great. They are boring, but they are good, and very innovative, with things like height of the bottom.”
Does Cadolle raise the bottom as well? “Of course! I completely reshape the body, the way they want to reshape. That’s what I like to do.” She spoils her customers, smiles. “Because I love them. I really do.” You tend forward. “Now, do you want to meet my daughter?”
About the corner, in the past Dior, our greeting Patricia behind the boutique counter, as they store the ready -made lines of wearing. “We never agree with each other,” Patricia (her silky scarf is barely visible over her shirt collar) explains, “but we always find between the separation periods. This is really the goal of working across generations – when you are a young man, you do not need a brown. So you do not You realize that it is very technique, you only look at the optical influence.
Behind it is a drawer of drawers that contains hundreds of pairs of the nicks, located together like birds. “In normal work, do not dare say what your opinion is, while of course, with the mother and daughter, you are!” POUPIE gestures. “We are not doing a profession, we just do our work, to improve the products and knowledge that has grown the family.”
Patricia grew up in Atlee – it would end here, as she says, was inevitable. “But now she sees more than I do,” says Bobby. “I’m more now. It’s more in the future. She has more, Comment on Peut Dire – UNe? “
Bobby says, when she was a teenager, she fought terribly with her mother, who prevented her from wearing socks. She said she thought she was vulgar. But she was smart because she knew that socks would destroy our actions. They removed the rings, ligament belts, fun widows, and everything would carry socks. Then when women started wearing pants, she killed underwear. Now all that remains is bras. “With the popularity of soft cups and comfort that is given priority, can they also disappear?” They are trying! But then we are waiting. “Yes, he says, Patricia.
“Women have different bodies throughout her life. Everything changes, a bust, size – the greater, the more needed to support it.” The luxury goods market decreases every year – how will the brand to adapt to the 136 -year -old underwear? “The market is shrinking, but we are still here, because we are still loyal to whom we are, and what we are doing.” While other luxury brands, they say, they tried to be able to compete and reduce their prices, “we did not, because we are very young and because we are unable to make a chest with bad lace.” Poupie gently shakes thought. “This does not work, this is not Cadol.”
