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What does Melania’s merciless hat tell us? Designers are suddenly eager to dress the Trumps | Rhiannon Lucy Cosslett

M“Any force, no matter how tightly it is failing in front of fashion, said.” If the fashion says the skirts are short, you will not succeed in lengthening even by the guillotine. ” For this reason, the far -right authoritarian movements have long tried to seize the fashion system. We can argue indefinitely about whether the new Trump administration can be compared to fascism. I think it meets most of the main features It was identified by Ambo EcoBut others will differ. Regardless of your position, it is fair to say that the women of the Republican Party have spread fashion in ways to send a political message.

Ivanka Trump on the day of inauguration, January 20, 2025. Photography: Michael Le Brecht/ABC

Although men particularly love to highlight the alleged fashion of fashion (say that to Roland BartI always think) it is a form of art and visual language that has a lot to tell us about the state of the world, and it deserves analysis like any other aspect of culture. the Ascending the trading – The modest righteous dresses with very popular flowers by these right -wing influences, which then moved to the main streets – reflected the transformation in the United States to the right. Since this new administration will inevitably retract more women’s rights, I wonder how this will be reflected in fashion. Burrin dresses are on their way to extinction, but there are other patterns to replace them.

It seems that we are seeing a greater shift towards hardness in clothes (see Ivanka Trump Green costumeDistinguishingly reminded us of the story of the evil maid Serena Joy) and the conservative sewing or even, dared to say, the unified clothes that are very popular by the extreme political right. A lot has been said about how Melania’s bright renaissance contradicts the costume of Jackie or In the last opening. This time there was no attempt to satisfy the Rozine people: it looked positively. It was an unforgettable hat that says: “Resistance is useless, and I will not communicate with the eye if I tried to beg.”

Donald, Melania, Lara, Eric Trump, Jarid Kushner and Ivanka Trump, at the Liberty Day on the inauguration day, January 20, 2025. Photography: Elizabeth Franz – Reuters

It is equally important that the designers were more prepared, this time, to work with the Trump administration women. LVMH, the Arno family, was present at the opening ceremony. LVMH owns Givenchy – which designed a dress for Ivanka at the inauguration ceremony He reminds us of Odere Hepburn In Sabrina – Dolphin Arno is the CEO of Christian Dior Couture. The fashion was not only careful not to wear Melania Trump’s clothes during the recent administration, but it was very hostile, as Mark Jacobs said: “I have no interest at all in the design of Melania Trump’s fashion … I personally prefer to put my energy in helping those who will become Melania Trump. Pour [Donald] Trump and his supporters. ” But this time, the fashion industry seems less resistant, and it is an anxious sign of the deep shift towards conservative values ​​that occurred in the United States.

There are economic reasons for this newly discovered ease, according to the Belgian designer Walter van Perlingonk. he I suggest this week The fashion world is “afraid” of the president. Because of her fear of the effect that Trump’s definitions can cause on its brands, the industry is said to be afraid to speak against it. One wonders what many LGBTQ + workers in the industry are designers who work with a strong hostile administration for its community members. Fashion may have a dark history, but it was also a way to show resistance. This is the diversity and creativity in the industry that I feel that everyone will not be ready to submit to the calligraphy.

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