Calvin Klein’s first female creative director finds succour in a fictional New York | New York fashion week

The first creative director in Calvin Klein, Veronica Leoni, presented her first collection on Friday, which Kate Moss – the most famous for the brand during the 1990s, presented when the advertising panel ads ruled on the Ztelist – Calvin Klein himself, 82, and Christie Torlington.

The brand had a lot of riding on Friday’s offer, the first presentation of the platform for six and a half years, and the most prominent New York Fashion Week The timetable, which was light on big names such as American fashion struggles to compete with European brands owned by French LVMH and KERING blocs.

Speaking behind the scenes after the show, Leoni said that the biggest challenge to her was “to be inspired by the archive, without entering nostalgia.”

This was expressed by adhering to the pretext, which was seen in the opening appearance of a black and treacherous black knee garment of sewing that was completely implemented on the black-white spectrum.

There were also more fun elements, including the modern mono-l’elail for the award season, and fixed organic pollutants of the color (pink dressing, convenient dress, outside the shoulder; flowing tomato dress) and tiny printed clutch bags animals inspired by Silhouette from CK One bottle. Leoni, 41, described herself as “one generation CK”.

Some of the appearance of a slim silhouette appeared that felt the support – black trousers and players who shrunk on the shirts that summoned the clothes of the Gwenith Paltrow office in the sliding doors. The group’s Moodboard’s painting included pictures of David Bernin, whose effect was on the huge shoulders, fridge and Brad Pitt as a couple in the nineties.

New York Fashion Week, which started on Thursday, has an unenviable task of bringing chanting and magic Chaos of the first weeks from Donald Trump as a president.

The brand felt directly influenced. This week, her mother company, PVH – which also owns Tommy Hilfiger – was included by China in retaliatory procedures after that Trump imposed a 10 % tariff. The results of this procedure are unclear, but they can include fines and closure. About 18 % of PVH suppliers and factories, and 6 % of their sales are located in the region.

Unprecedented unknown abroad, Leoni – an Italian and lives in Rome with her wife – did not lead a major house, but he has a wonderful autobiography that works between the minimum minimum fashion, including Gille Sander, Row, and Celine Under Philo. Her private brand, Quira, was launched in 2021.

Like many of those who grew up outside the United States, she said she had a fictional vision of the country, and New York specifically, obtained from films and the media before visiting it.

The group expressed her “personal dream in America” ​​and explored the characters from the films that appeared on the runway. “You have an exciting worker, you have a taxi driver, you have Jessica Rabit, you have Clark Kent. I feel that this type of moments helps form a variety of characters.”

Klein, who founded his company in 1968 and who maintained a relatively low level since his retirement in 2004, then told her that he was happy with her group and that he “found a new coat for purchase.”

The latest brand show, before the platform stops, It was done in 2018under Belgian designer Rav Simons, who is now participating in the design in Prada. At that time, Simons found an inspiration in the horrors of the Trump administration, Providing a dark view for America. This time, his most optimistic interpretation of the American style was based on an attractive imagination and greatly eager.