Walking up an appetite in Armenia’s Caucasus mountains | Armenia holidays

IT’s just a few miles away on the road against Nurfank (New monastery), a tourist tie in the top Armenia, but it is very desperate, especially in the summer. Fortunately, the view from the point of view is the most worthy of all this.
Only from one distance, you can really take in the field of the Red Stone Monastery, which includes churches and a church, and appreciate the tremendous dimension of the Cadin accompanied by the cinnamon in which it sits, and spread with the caves of the honey disk-“bears nests” as a local priest later told me. Once you reach the top and return down, on the road leading to Nurfank, there is a small cave café that offers comfort in the form of refreshing, thick powers. Material (Likes yogurt), fresh lafach bread and Jeremouk bottles, and famous local mineral water.
In Armenia, I reached the conclusion that no meal could compete with what is presented to you after a good walk. Difficult happiness, comfort and comfort when you sit and finally eat one of the most satisfactory and fun things in life. The hills sandwich is one thing, and the Armenian feast is the next level.
For my new book, Green Mountains: Walking in the Caucasus with recipes, I spent a few months in exploring the cities of Armenia, valleys and hills, and I do what I can walk, and I usually travel with a walking partner and use a car to reach corridors.
Before I started, I got some warnings about walking in the Caucasus by seasoned expatriate stores. “Watch out for lightning storms, snakes, and giant hoops, which can give you a terrible blink and severe burns. Do not stumble between the Caucasian shepherd dog and its herd.”
With all this in mind, the Armenian exploration began not far from Noravank, towards the south of the country, on my way to the north, and I often go to walk – for a long time, short, urban and rural – from Hikearmenia app Or choose sections from Transkoasian trail.
Armenia may not be proud of the tall peaks of neighboring Georgia – the splendor of the mountains such as Oshubia, Tetnuldi or Kazbek can not be closely denied – but there is a fewer number that I have not passed by another infantry at several height, and this is not valid if the peace you are looking for on the hills.
The actual walk is only one part of adventure in Armenia – culture is a permanent companion. In the largest lake in the southern Caucasus, Lake Seifan, I had reached overnight in Seifan book houseA future architectural masterpiece that was built in stages of the thirties of the twentieth century, which is the most light part in the form of giant snow shoes balanced on one thick concrete leg. Today, it works as a hotel, although it collapses a little.
Upon arrival, I took a picnic to Sevanavank DeirHe is located directly, while the chef trimmed a handful of salted small salmon, then served them next to the bread, salads and a cup of Armenian brandy. In the morning, it was there Gata (A thick baking cake, as it is sweet) and the displayed coffee, and made happily from these to the balcony of the dining room, with the lake extending below.
On his way to Lake Seifan, she stopped a hole in the Nawratos Cemetery, about a thousand Khatkar (Through stones), some of them go back to the tenth century, and lost a few hours that walk between them on complex herbal lands where sheep herds are sponsored. The bond down, I was able to see some of them carved with expressive human faces, almost similar to the cartoon, while others were decorated with complex engineering patterns. The sun lit up the elders that covered it, and the mosaic is formed in rust, cream, lemon, and green pistachios.
However, most hikers make a line for the town of Deligan, north of Lake Sivan, a starting point for the national park that bears the name and 125 miles (200 km) or so from long -distance walking paths. From Deligan, the first walking for me was a semi -day circular road in the neighboring province of Lori, after the old tracks used by the shepherds for generations.
I promised two privileges to walking me and me: the destroyer Bardzrakash MonasteryIn the depth of the Tafut forest, and the thirteenth century Khatkar is called Seron Khash, locally known as “The Beautiful Stone Stone”.
From the starting point, the DSEGH village, we set out along a lubrication road wandering in the ankle placed in the Middle Ages. The trumpet forest, the mattress and cherry Cornellian have grown quickly, and the blanket of a trail. Khatkar suggested standing on embarrassing angles that we were heading to the right path of the monastery, and a long time ago it appeared outside the fog. It is dedicated to the sperm, the saint of Armenia, and almost completely fits the vegetation, and the forest literally eaten it. With no roof, the first thing you see is a mixture of fallen construction and a memorial construction spread around the Church of God in the thirteenth century, and the smallest to the northern side.
I was dismayed because he was left open to pigs, artists on the walls, and everyone who felt they wanted to go up to him, but I also felt that I was lucky to be here. Simply roaming, without crowds, the need for a ticket or any kind of queue.
We stole, lost our way several times and penetrated the rough vegetation, until the forests turned into the open countryside and reached the only Sarun Khaach. Glis in the wet, carved from the light brown tuff and placed it with a pier on a triple black basalt base. This moment called for a snack bonus of the hill, so I pulled a package of GozinakiSweet fragile made of nuts and seeds, and cut the pieces. The rain opened the smell of the surrounding meadows.
Rest, again, she presented herself at the end of walking. Armenia harvesting bumper was shown in the Small Summer Market in DSEGH. First, hot coffee for activation and slice of GataThen a liter of fresh pumpkin juice that robs it, rotating cheese into the pocket as well as a bag of exceptional white figs purchased from a woman’s car box she chose from her garden. There was some friendly rivalry between the owners of variables about those who had the largest and best berries, so I bought two cups of different sellers to taste the difference.
One of the most difficult things about walking through such a landscape, and enjoying this feeling of discovery, is to stop. There is a convincing desire to overcome the following valley to see a Moeen Mountain, that church or that village. Walking in Armenia was exposed to the servant again and again, in the best possible way.
During Manahi, the word “constellation” continued in mind, as I often felt that I was in a sky full of stars as I could jump from one to another with a feeling of almost other wonders. And throughout the time the hospitality and food provided by the Armenians who often come out by helping a stranger.
The Green Mountains of Caroline Aden (Quadrille Publishing Ltd, 28 pounds) was deployed on April 3. To support the guardian and the observer, ask for your copy on Guardianbookshop.com. Delivery fees may apply