In praise of the maximalist salad

When chef Roy Choi He set out in making the ideal power for people who hated power, he knew exactly the feeling that he was chasing: at that moment of 13 or 14 years of age-when everything about you feel the interpretation: your body, your choices, or your appetite-suddenly, you are fabricated on Friday or SIZZLER, or even in my quality full of fake risks from A. Windy. There are no rules. No adult hovering. Just you and the righteous bar, with its refrigerated metal boxes and endless possibilities. I felt like freedom.
“This authority is intended for people who have never liked to eat the authorities,” he told me in a recent conversation. “But the only power we liked to eat?
In the salad bar, no one can tell you what to do or not eat. It was not a lecture on your choices. You choose. Choi-well-known as the best facility for the Korean Korean Taco Koji truck and its role in its role “Chef’s Show” With John Favrio – he is called a kind of power. gate. Like placing headphones in a loud room and lifting the sound level.
“Even if someone is always on your ass, such as, you cannot eat this, you eat much of that,” he could not say anything. “Because he said.authorityThis word is your protection. I was in control. “
So yes, you may only take three leaves of chopped lettuce. Perhaps you are stacked on corn, pasta salad, tortia strips and three ships from the farm. It doesn’t matter. You have made your own rules. This is what Roy is related to the King F ** Big F **, which is a recipe is a maximum memorial for flavor and independence, full of vegetables, corn, buttons, apple slices, orange pieces, cheese and crisis options. It is not just the name of Sfic – it is a thesis. One that repeats the greatest philosophy of “”Cooking“His new book is based on balance and mercy and refusing to think everything or nothing that carries many of us about food.
“If the authority can eat like cheeseburgerHe said, “This is.”
After our conversation, I could not stop thinking about the maximum powers. This tends to crisis, salt and cream, into things stacked over other things. They are fun. permissive. The most like a love song was built to the autonomy of the side dish. A salad that makes you feel – really feel – something.
Maybe they are in good health. Maybe they are not. Maybe this is not even the point.
So when the desire was finally distinguished in the obsession, I did the only logical thing: I went to Cheese pie factoryPlace to the maximum in both implementation and design.
Cheesecake factory does not do hidden. It is bone, with a wink. FAUX-Greek columns rise as they carry the sky; The murals are hovering across the roof in the Colyna’s color palette; Lighting is the same warm gold as melted butter. The menu is less than a document of the ordeal-Tommy is connected to the weight of a small child and a narrative arc for a park ride. Even the bathrooms are luxurious in that absolute strange way: part of the shopping square in the suburbs, part of the ancient Egyptian bath, and all the back marble and echo tiles.
Then there is their choice for the authorities.
There are some simple options, which is the type that you find in separating the salad of any chain. For example, there is a green cemetery salad with clear ice carcasses that leak under a fork, with strips of frizzy carrots, cucumber slices, tomato animals, and some cup of metal clothes that are quietly waiting on the side. Then there is a “approximately traditional” Caesar, with a shy toast of bitter bitterness and annoying barmes, such as snowfall.
But most of the list is unusually maximized – a greeting for abundance and high texture. Take mexicali salad: roasted atom grains attributed with a whisper of smoke, avocado slices, fragile and almost transparent strips of jacama, acute onions, soft white beans and mixed mixed vegetables with financial declines from Cotija cheese and roasted fool. Cultures a scattered from the clear tortilla that goes under your teeth.
Freed chicken club salad also does bacon Dark blue cheese collapses. There are tomatoes with a jewel jewel, cold cucumber slices, and rings of onion, all full of dijon honey.
Even the vegetable cup tends towards abundance instead of austerity: clear lettuce leaves, grilled asparagus winds, grilled beets, green beans, quinoa walnuts and varu, all locked with crunchy almonds and bibbasas to stamp the deal.
But when it settled in a kiosk, the type of mysterious banquet made for kindness WhoOSH Under your thighs and a faded smell of elites covered with butter and spoken, the thought pushed its way to the front of the line: If I am eating 800 calories, I shouldn’t ask pasta instead of barbecue chicken salad, riots of creamy avocado, tomatoes, grilled corn and black beans with the nest of interlocking bird of crunchy fried onion chains?
It was a small, calm reaction, residues of decades of diet messages. Somewhere in the depths of the wires, there was still a belief that power, regardless of the extent of bending, was supposed to be a kind of abundance. Fadel. chip. (It is worth noting the Green Authority mentioned above, as it slows down the “Skinnylicious” list, where there is nothing that leads 590 calories.) But this lacks this point.
Cobb Sald (Getty Images/ Glasshouse Images)The Great Authority F ** King is not only Roy Choi rebellion. It is part of the proud, sometimes ridiculous traditions and complete happiness for the maximum entrance authorities. The powers that are not here to keep you small, but to please. For pleasure. To deliver your appetite without apology. They extend between the line between leniency, wellness, pleasure and atonement. They do this with taste.
Take the quasadilla explosion salad in chili. A truly degraded mixture of grilled chicken, cheese, tomatoes, corn, and tortilla slices, are thrown into citrus fruits, symphbes and topped-because no-with the actual pegs of the cheese quesadilla. I worked there as a student and at least once a week, usually nights on Friday when I felt at the end of the shift to celebrate a little, and I ask someone to eat on the corridor. The red polo shirt, the black pants of Kohl’s, Dashboard Confessional and Weezer are repeated from the kitchen while the preparatory crew was cleaned under the line. It was tolerant. It was comfortable. It was for me.
Getty Images / FDASTudilloThen there is a taco salad from any solid local Mexican joint, which is the type that is served in the fried tortlla bowl with waves like the sun. It is basically Taco in American -style crunchy from the inside to the outside: hot ground beef, Queso Blanco cut, and a maggamoli, sour cream, Salsa, and clear shells of ice lettuce that barely hold it.
Chinese chicken salad – citrus, sweet, and gums – may be one of the original model queens. It was said that he grew up in Madame Woo in the middle of CaliforniaIt has been transferred since then to Mall cafes, PotBan Potbans and seizure and navigation containers. But the bones are similar: thin chicken, grated cabbage, crunchy pasta and dislocating the sesame. until Wolfgang Emple Its magic cannot be resisted. Chinois chicken salad, called the Santa Monica Chinois on Main Restaurant, was on the list since 1983 and He is still one of his most popular recipes; Evidence that even the indigenous kitchen can only help bend from the crunchy majesty of the crunchy salad.
But this is the thing: the maximum does not mean chaos. This does not necessarily mean unhealthy. This means not afraid of fun.
Chinese chicken salad (Getty Images / Whitewish)You can build the maximum salad of roasted and moors. Added chickpeas, pepper watercress, spray from pomegranate molasses – suddenly, do not eat for fuel. You eat for joy. The soul is abundant. The point is satisfaction.
There are no difficult rules, but here is a loose scheme:
- Start with a base that you carry – A small jewel, Faru, Ramin Nudls, shaving cabbage. Something with the spine.
- Texture Think of the pickled corn, pickled leeks, creamy avocado, cold slices of exciting stone fruit.
- Choose anchor – Protein with presence. Reddish meat slices, fragile tofu, hot smoked salmon. (Or croutons chicken finger, if you are Matti Matthesson’s progress))
- The dress is brown. Green gods perforated with anchovy. Ranch milk farm with brittle hot pepper. Lime flour number deviates with ice water until it shines.
- End with prosperity – sugar pistachios, eggs of the corridor, fried arrogance, potato chip dust. Yes, Potato chip dust.
Look around you for inspiration: The Deli, The DIM Sum Cart, the light meal corridor. How will the authority of everything look like? Perhaps toast, smoked salmon ribbons, pickled red onions, caper vinaigrettte, goat cheese, and sexy summer tomatoes. It is not necessary to follow logic. You should make you want another bite.
Or, as Roy Choi said: “I wanted to create a salad that you crave. This looks like a meal. Like contentment. This salad is a mixture of this feeling and then balanced with the” healthy part. “
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