After a year of musical chairs in fashion, September is preparing to be one of the largest months ever: with collections for the first time from a decision of new creators in brands including Mattheu Blazy in Chanel and former Balenciaga designer in Gucci.
On Sunday in Paris, Michael Rider, who recently succeeded Heidi Suleiman In Celine, I decided to get a beginning.
In entertaining how to plan it to form the future of the brand, Ryder showed a mixture of men and women’s clothes.
The show is held in the sprawling brand, a short jump away from the Tuileres Park. Among the guests was the actor Naomi WhatsApp, after 18 months of the South Korean military service, Kim Tayheung, from the K-POP BTS, which tried to a shelter of rain under a giant silk Volad That was erected over a courtyard.
It was a complete circle of Rider, an American designer who previously worked during the Phoebe Philo during her mandate in the brand from 2008 to 2017.
While her fans, known as “Philophiles”, were hoping that Ryder would restore this cute sewing and simplicity, his inaugural appearance quickly reduced these expectations.
Instead of the huge silhouettes, there was a series of tight jeans and even a knife trousers, and hugged the calves so tightly that it should have come with a trading warning.
These meager silhouettes were a reference to his predecessor, Suleiman, who honed his sharp style in his signature during his work in Saint Laurent and Dior Home before submitting him to Celine.
Despite the initial criticism, Slimane has proven profitable for the Mother Celine LVMH. According to analysts, it was said that he doubled the annual Celine sales to 2.5 billion euros (2.1 billion pounds), converting it to the third largest brand in LVMH, behind Luis Vuitton and Dior. However, in October, he resigned amid rumors about the failed contract negotiations.
It is now returning to Rider to pick up this stick.
Rider’s date comes in a difficult time in the fashion industry, with a great slowdown across the luxury markets (for the first quarter of 2025, LVMH reported a 4 % decrease in fashion and leather goods).
At the annual general meeting of April 2024, CEO of LVMH, Bernard ArnoltHe said: “Celine is elegant, swimming, and sexy fashion even if the prices are the same, and it is working.”
Instead of wiping the clean menu during this period of uncertainty, it appears that the contestant is set to develop on the tried formula and the current brand’s current test.
Speaking behind the scenes after the show, Ryder said that “he did not want to have a sense of erasure,” adding that “there was a basis for building on him. I felt this with a modern feeling, felt moral, and felt strong.”
Ryder bound this honor to the past through his tangle with his fashion story. There were gestures of its American roots and its last cause as the director of the design of Polo Ralph Lauren, with the packed neck players, elegant Oxford shirts and planned relationships. The simple evening appears in black, including a dress -out dress and satin -worn satellites skillfully remembering its previous time in Celine.
The accessories, which were easy for luxury brands to transform from a 5,000 -pound coat, were the axis. The fingers came covered in multiple colorful golden rings. The chunky bracelets were stacked on the forearms. The giant chain tie necklaces are diluted. Increased keys with everything from blossom to the micro -Eiffel towers.
Ryder said he wanted to inject a fun element. He said: “I never want to be seen as satirical. Getting a sense of humor in luxurious space is beautiful.”
Bags ranging from huge woven baskets and massive leather hawks have been placed to delicious bags with slogans ranging from C Simple C to Monogram “TIOOMPHE”, which was first created by Céline Vipiana in 1971.
Ryder said he was attracted to the nature of the fluid of the logo. “They can move from something really cool to something completely different from it. It can be many things.”
