Is gjelina, with its three sites, is a series now? It is definitely more than just a restaurant. Lett left the GJELINA group in 2019, sold his share to the founder, Fran Kamaj (his mother bearing the name of the restaurant). The company is now running a hotel, meals, a home commodity store, a flower store, and a professional training institution in hospitality, as well New Yorker He plans to bring him to New York as well.
Although the elements specified in the Gjelina menu have changed over the years since the departure of Lett, the kitchens, which are now under the supervision of the executive chef Juan Hernandez, are still the ones that are still and formulas. The dishes no longer feel revolutionary as they did a decade and a half ago – where everything that the restaurant offers can come directly from Lett. “Gulina“Cooking Book, from 2015, which is a wonderful size full of reference recipes and sub -conflicts. But it knocks on the points of the continuous GJELina dedication to Brussels and Pesus buds somewhat similar to” Hamlet “because he was full of clichés.
The menu is defined in GJELINA by a market -dependent abundance.
The kitchen in Gjelina New York, of course, is open, located behind the dining bar, visually permeated by the orange fire of the burning oven. Food is completely amazing, and as is the firm, as in California, with the spread of saturated flavors in a calculated balance. Tartari Lundering lamp is marinated with North Africa Rituals Paste as echo and arrival as fog. A bouquet of long stem broccolini charred and attractive around the edges and wear clothes in vinegar that is slightly diluted through the sweetness of black garlic. A spaghetti filled with saffron is thrown into a sauce of confusing tomatoes and the town that burns red heat. You ask for roasted fennel because you love fennel. Close your eyes in the euphoria of rapture due Agrodolce At the top, which turned out to be what fennel always needs, along with spraying from Togarashi, and some ideal tools of oranges, for a good measurement.
One night, I calculated fifty -two elements on the dinner list, not including sweets. Service was not particularly useful in moving in abundance. “What looks good for you?” It seems to be their crossing, and back enough: when a restaurant does it well, for this long time, there is no wrong way to go. “Do we have to get sweet -fingered potatoes, or pinto potatoes?” My friend inquired on one visit, looking at some Spud options (four, including pizza covered with thin potatoes, with Taleggio and garlic). We went with finger fingers – a row of amazing pegs with a edge of smoke and caramel, served in a group of hot yogurt under a shower of soft green onions. What looked well was really good; One of Gjelina’s promises is that what looks good will always be.
What is different from the original, significantly and more importantly, is, partly, the physical space. Do not extend. New York rises. This is narrower, more vertical and more vertical gjelina and a group of halls that resemble the box with a scatter of windows facing the streets and there is no refreshing air that can be talked about. Schemes of the coffee cafe are encouraged in a front room – naive wood, minimal shapes – a way of mood spaces inside: a large dining room on the top floor, with a heavy wooden strip that runs along one wall; A quieter food area, upholstered behind it. In DinnerTime, the restaurant is busy, but does not decrease; The crowd appears to be largely consisting of people with beautiful hair and convincing hideous shoes. Compared to La Gjelina, the New York outpost, may definitely, has a little sense of space.
