Leaderless Gucci harks back to glamorous 60s and sexy 90s in Milan | Fashion

The fashion account goes this way: Take a brand for standing, like GucciAnd hit it with the power by putting it in the hands of the Zeitgeist designer. Right the right poster with the right person at the right moment, and hit the Grand Prix win.
In this Milan Fashion WeekThe Gucci numbers were never added. Although there is a high -value shiny brand name, there is a great zero as the designer must be. Sales decreased by 24 % in the last quarter of 2024, and the designer Sabato de Sarreno came out of the brand two weeks ago. This departure was expected, but the timing talked about a brand that was shook due to the failure of the recent groups to communicate with shoppers.
The new collection, a group effort by the design team that was not due to the Chin-UP leader, a living orchestra and Sanbania, was a statement about what Gucci was, and could be again with the correct creative leader. This was the greatest package, returning to the brand in the most luster – the 1960s, and the most attractive – in the nineties.
Luxurious fur coats praised the pencil skirts for the days that Sofia Lauren was a beloved agent at the Gucci Store in Rome; The shift dresses with large buttons and high -attractive hemlines brought the Jackie Kennedy. Men’s clothes went in the same period, with square car coats that worn on the rooted collar in the spirit of Beatnik-Meets-Cockney of Michael Kane in his Italian career age. Horse devices and bamboo handles appear, and details such as Gucci as a dual g of G, on belts and bags. Tom Ford’s handwriting in the nineties was also here, in thin tissue sliding dresses decreased to the navel and the base of the spine, and a transparent lace skirt with the shortest visible black Casemon under it.
The design team, which took the joint bow at the end of the show in the Swefsshirts Green Gucci matching, was fun with the color palette. A poisonous green pencil skirt under a purple coat, while a red blouse brought a pink skirt suit in life.
Gucci from De Sarreno was a calm luxury vision. But the brand fans, who were accustomed to enjoying them indefinitely by the vital maximum in his predecessor, Alessandro Michel, was not exciting.
Many rumors about the next Gucci step. After they rotated the dice in an unknown name from inside the design studio with the appointment of De Sarno, the KERING owners are believed to be looking for a stars designer to restore the situation.
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Heidi Suleiman, the talented and the caricature and with a busy record in making classic brands convincing again, is now interestingly unprecedented after a successful period in Celine. British designer Kim Jones, who has already spent four years at the first Milan table with a period in Vindi, which ended last year, is another possible competitor.