Thom Browne takes flight in New York with feathers, herons and magpies | New York fashion week

Thom Browne said that if no one receives his platform shows except positive reviews, he worries that he played it very safe. He prefers a lot of ruffles a few feathers.

Literally, this season. Birds, which reduce gray suits are Brown garlic Signature, they were everywhere. The eyelashes, made of bright feathers, had the wings of the collar dust. Above the platform, 2000 oreigami birds were suspended during the trip.

But Brown may be disappointed this season, because these clothes were easy to love. The jackets and coats in the British -made Tuid, their dimensions that were adjusted instead of distorting them, were charmingly embroidered with sad and purple or purple signals from Latume water colors From John J Audubon’s Birds of America Anthology. “I mix concepts with classic, and it seems that it works,” he said with ignoring after this offer.

Brown wants to make clothes that use, wear and wear again and again, guaranteed in a real life. For this reason, he loves a suit, from 9 to 5, costume of bread and butter. But the perverted proportions of Brown’s suitability, with its narrow sleeves and short legs, are a wink for the camera that its wearer tells the world as a game to bear the risks. David Boy was a loyal agent. Where the other designers put Sabrina Najjar On the pictorial music, Browne prefers Emily Dickenson’s hair.

Only a few designers affect the shape of clothes on the street, but Brown is one. Every man wears his slightly cut trousers, so that he was flashing from a visible sock over his shoes, with his appearance to Brown, who was based on his career on the deliberately embarrassing proportions of the gray claims that he has been selling since 2001 (Brown (Browni. The ankle is called “male split Just as Georgio Armani turned into sewing into a hall in the 1980s with very desirable suits, and Brown changed the man’s silhouette on the street.

Brown, like his colleague New York Grande Marc Jacobs, sees fashion as materials to change the mind and is happy to tear the book of commercial thinking for American fashion. A prominent silhouette, which is why Browne uses gray, to increase the focus on the shape. He said that there was a new sports profit this season-a “reference to Super Bowl”, in the back at the back level. But a lot of colors as well, this season: it was a pale pink cocoon -plattering gown of pistachio silk from inverted folds.

Brown has become a column for the American fashion industry. In 2018, he sold a 85 % stake in his company to the Zegna Group in a deal whose brand is estimated at $ 500,000 (403,327 pounds). He branched into the woman’s clothes, wearing Michelle Obama, Serena Williams, Marathha Stewart and actor Ayu Edpere. DOECII rapper recently got Grammy for the best rap album in Thom Browne Tailoring. “Our classic gray allowance has been present for 25 years, and although it has never been old, seeing the dochii that it embraced and clarified to a new generation was incredible,” Brown said in this exhibition.

The designer is located at the heart of the American Fashion Institute: his long -term partner is Andrew Bolton, Secretary of the Fashion Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art; Anna Winner He is a strong friend and supporter.

He was invited by the ruling body of the French to present an upscale fashion show in Paris, a rare honor, the head of the American Fashion Designers Council, a former role by Tom Ford and Dian Von Forstelberg, given the supervision mission New York Fashion Week And direct the jobs of young designers. His advice to them is not to notice directions. “There are really talented children in New York,” he said after this show. “Everyone has to do everything they should do to survive.”